Refrigerant Air Conditioners uses sea water and below we will go through a typical marine Installation. Evaporative AC does not need a water inlet. Installation for volt water cooled Air Conditioner: Most Marine air conditioning systems are water cooled rather than air cooled. Calculate cabin volume and size system, see size below 2. Installing the thru hull, seacock and strainer 4. Installing the water pump unit, and its accessories, 5. Install AC unit and connect to power supply, 6. Install ducts and grills 7.
Install discharge. The diagram right shows a typical installation. The thru hull is placed at a lowest point in the boat. It is important to get the lowest point, to reduce air getting sucked in with the water. If the deepest point in the boat is not close to the unit, its OK to run the hose a long distance. It is also recommended a scoop for sea water intake facing forward. Care should be taken to avoid crimping the suction line. If long runs of plumbing are required or if the unit is placed well above the waterline you may end up with too much head pressure necessitating a higher volume pump.
We have a variety of pumps in stock, and the charge to increase the GPM capacity is nominal — see our pump page. We do not use a serrated, knurled or enhanced tube to increase the surface area because we find our slick inner tube to be less prone to trap debris and much more durable — we make up for this loss of surface area by extending the length of the condensing tube ensuring long-term trouble-free operation.
In multiple unit installations, we often suggest using one large pump with a pump relay box whereby each unit has a 24 volt wire returning to the pump relay box usually mounted by the pump , and if any one of the units engage, the pump will supply water to all of the units.
The sea water discharge from each unit can be individual by each unit or tied together into one or more discharge through hull fittings. The condensate drain line should never be connected to the raw water discharge line- if there were a blockage in the discharge line, the raw water pump would pump raw water back into the drain pan and ultimately into the boat causing a sinking hazard. The condensate drain line is a gravity line and the highest point of this line will determine the water level in the condensate pan.
Under normal operating conditions, the condenser the copper tube within a tube on the unit should be warm to the touch — if you cannot feel any heat in the condenser whatsoever when the compressor is running, you have too much cold water passing through it. This can be remedied by installing a gate valve on the supply line at the unit to throttle down the water flow.
If the condenser is too hot to hold your hand on constantly, you are not getting enough cooling water. This is not a very scientific way of determining water flow but it works. Most of our units have manually resettable high pressure switches on the condenser, whereby if the unit is operated without enough cooling water and the refrigerant pressure on the high side reaches the limit, the switch will activate, shutting down the compressor until it is manually reset by pushing in the button.
All of our units are pre-wired onto two clearly marked terminal blocks. We recommend the use of GFI ground fault interrupt breakers for any high voltage equipment near water, and always use stranded wire — never use solid core wire on any vessel because the motion of the vessel may eventually cause a failure and can be a serious fire hazard. Be sure to use the proper size wire for our equipment. Use a minimum 12 gauge power supply wire — never use 14 gauge for even our smallest units if wired volt.
Use quality wire — cheap 12 wire may be rated at less than 30 amps, typically the larger number of strands and the higher the voltage capability of the wire determines its capacity — use wire rated at a minimum V. Many marinas have inadequate wiring -we suggest you test the dock line voltage during peak loads -it may be volts on a cool weekday morning and 90 volts on a hot weekend afternoon. This terminal block is clearly marked, however, if you wish to confirm which is which, the heavier gauge wires are the power in and the lighter gauge wires are the pump output terminals.
With V systems, the black wire is your line L , which goes to the circuit breaker, the white wire is your neutral N , which goes to the neutral buss bar, and the green wire is always ground G , which goes to your ground buss bar.
With V systems, there is usually no neutral, the white wire and there are two lines, one black L1 and one red L2 , both of which must be on a dual terminal V breaker. The low voltage terminal block connects to the digital control — we use the HVAC industry standard — red, white, green, yellow color code — any domestic thermostat will operate any of our equipment and you will never have to helicopter in a rocket scientist to figure out our digital control, in fact, one can cross all of these wires except the white for cool or all of the wires except the yellow for heat.
When we install , we take the time to cover, and keep the boat clean during the install process we treat your boat as if it were our own. Installation time varies from job to job depending on boat location and difficulty, but usually takes 2 days to complete a single system job.
Once job is complete we take the time to explain how everything works and how best to take care of things. Because a centrifugal pump cannot pump air, flow through the system is lost. Plumbed as stated above, Air bubbles in the piping will rise naturally through the pump and then be expelled. It will also make winterizing the system much easier. The intake through hull foot Scoop should be as low as possible in the water in a location that is always underwater and not exposed to the backwash of the propellers whereby air bubbles could be ingested.
Almost every marine air conditioning pump is a flooded volute pump and must be mounted below the waterline. For boats that are in dry storage, you may want to install a Mermaid Bleed Valve fitting at the discharge of the pump for releasing the back pressure to simplify priming. Hints and Tips -.
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