Set your table saw or circular saw to a 45 degree angle. With the saw OFF, slide the marked board end up to the blade and adjust the fence until it matches the diagonal line. You can use a circular saw jig to get the right spacing as well. Cutting diagonally is a lot harder on the saw blade, so take it slow and use a push stick! You may get a little burning on the cut edge, but it's better to go slow and let the blade do the work rather than force it through.
The pointed ends should lock together with the sides even. Test it out on a flat surface, making sure that they slide together easily. While they're locked together, mark both pieces facing up with a big WALL in pencil. This way you'll know which side is supposed to face the wall, and you don't end up with two top pieces!
I wanted to make sure that the screws through the hangboard hit at least a couple of the short 2x4 "studs" inside the box. Put the hangboard on top of the 2x4s, and move the middle ones around until they line up with the holes in the hangboard.
Mark their position on the plywood base. In order for the cleat to sit flush against the wall, you'll need to countersink the screws.
This will sink the screw heads below the surface of the wood and won't interfere with them locking together. Remove the hangboard from the tops of the 2x4s, and replace it with the French cleat boards with the WALL markings facing up. The top board will be screwed into the box, and the bottom board will be attached to the wall. You only want to drill holes in the solid side, not the angled part of the 2x4, so mark a line 2" down along the entire length. Now mark where the countersink holes will go above each little "stud.
Now take the bottom angled piece that will be attached to the wall, and bring it to the spot where you'll be installing it. Find the studs in the wall , and mark them in pencil. Match the board up with the studs in the wall, and mark where to predrill the holes. For safety, you need to attach the hangboard mount to two studs. Hold each board over the edge of the workbench, and drill the countersink holes at your marked spots. If you've never done this before, you can learn all about the technique here.
It's not required, but it will keep the screw heads out of the way when you attach the hangboard to it later. After all that prep work, the actual build process is really quick! Set up the little 2x4 boards again, and screw the top French cleat board to each of them with 3" screws. Line up the hangboard holes with the 2x4 mini studs. Make sure these hooks stay securely fastened even when pulling on them or adding pressure.
Finally, you can put the entire system together by mounting the bike hooks over the pull up bar. Now, you should have a fully-functional hangboard without the need for screwing anything into your walls. Nothing in life can be perfect—not even this great hanging method. Instead, the problem proves much less serious. Because the mounted board hangs down from hooks on the pullup bar, you lose a considerable amount of space. While this may not be much of a big deal for climbers of certain heights, taller people may have reduced space from which to hang.
Other than that, however, this mounting method offers few drawbacks. It can even be used on doors with suspect trimming—providing a sturdy and convenient way to get your hangboarding in. While the answer is a definite yes, do note that nearly every hangboard will work.
They just might not all be as effective. The excess weight can add more strain to the pullup bar and to your door. Additionally, the bulkier the hangboard, the harder it will be to mount. Not only that, but those of a bigger size take up more space. For this reason, small and lightweight hangboards—such as the Project by Metolius —work best for these types of mounts.
You should still be able to mount your board for effective results. While this is a very easy and secure method, this tutorial is for those who cannot damage the house while mounting a hangboard.
We did an in-depth comparison of hangboards here, but for this setup my favorite is the Metolius Project — or the Wood Grips II if you prefer wood. I recommend this one. Be sure to drill straight in — too much of an angle will weaken the setup. Then screw the hooks into these holes. Always be sure to carefully test the strength and security of your setup before trusting it completely good practice for climbing in general!
Though pricier than the DIY hangboard mounting options, Blank Slate Climbing offers a variety of options that are ready out of the box for you to mount a hangboard above a door without drilling. This has the benefit of saving height by not hanging lower from the Bike Hooks.
It does however require a bit more effort. Next, screw together one flange on each steel pipe nipple. Then, remove the end cap from the handle of the Pull-Up Bar. It should look like this:. Go hang the portable hangboard in your doorway and get started with one of our Hangboard Workouts. Feel free to message or comment with any questions, feedback, or pictures of what you build! Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.
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